The undying will and the mighty KHARDUNG LA

Finally, the day has come which I have worked for. Worked day and night with all my heart, blood determination and whatever it takes to reach here. The day when I will be starting my race from Khardung a remote village in mountain some 80km from Leh City . I was excited thrilled but actually terror stuck as I was about to start World’s HIGHEST ULRTA MARATHON on one of toughest & highest road in the world full of breathtaking altitudes, unimaginable views and the most punishing road to run where highly unpredictable weather with thin air and extremely low temperature can kill you . The seven times finisher Dharmendra Kumar says “even after 7 times I still have no idea on how my body will respond to those conditions”. I am supercharged while I was going to those times when I developed my passion for running. Quite Some time ago.. I was a common man who was working his 9am to 6pm job and I was happy about it. Yes! I was happy being monotonous until one of my colleagues Gaurav Naarang registered me into a famous local Marathon in December 2017. It all started from there.

This was not just a race for me but a life changer where I found that running gives me a kick and completing a run is a drug to me. This 10 km run was nothing but the after effect of a strong drug which I unquestionably do not want to get rid off. Present Day I reached my starting point around 2AM in the morning. The night is as dark as the deep black paint on the wall and we cannot see anything but a single ray of light from our headlamps. This inclined headlamp was our only route map but we are all ready for it. Its 3.00 am and I hear the sound 3….2….1….Gooooo.......

Now is the time to live in that zone of my addictive drug. Now is the time when I will relish the most memorable moments of my entire life. But my friend, “the most joyous pleasure in the world is the most expensive one.” As I moved forward I was having severe pain in my stomach. This is the time I realized, achieving this pleasure is not going to be easy for me. Yes I was not well from last 2-3 days I was suffering from severe stomach disorder, I have another race against this bowel disorder who is fighting against me for not finishing the race. It was the lack of acclimatization and we all knew it from the very start but without wasting any time I went to Balu Paaji, and he advised me to keep going by Brisk walking.This pain was not letting me move forward but there was no other option at my disposal. I tried to pull up the pace but couldn’t maintain the group pace, I was slowing my pack’s effort. It was only 7-8 km we ran and I told Balwinder Paaji, Niteshwar and Ravi Inderjeet Singh to continue their race and leave me. Balwinder started walking with me and kept pushing me but I was losing the strength. The cramps in my stomach were unbearably painful and were not letting me concentrate on race . we were reaching North Pulu and I almost fainted because of pain. I sat on the road to rest and starting to think how difficult it has been to reach here. I used to run regularly with Balu Paaji who added me to the Gurgaon runners’ group. Registering myself with every possible race to gain experiences and learning from every bit.With all the finishing lines I realized a lot of facts about running. Running is also a sport which involves a lot of technicalities and strategies. You need to undergo a proper training to achieve those difficult high altitude runs. I have nearly puked, being injured many times, had multiple breathing issues during my paths before I came in to THE KHARDUNGLA CHALLENGE. The challenge which is not a cake walk. You have to finish this race in such low oxygen with no proper path to run on and this is not all, you have a specific time to complete a cut-off points. If this isn't completed or you face any minor health issue during the race then the volunteers and the medical team passing you every 10 minutes will disqualify you.This is just not enough, you need to be there at Leh 10 days prior to the race to settle yourself with the atmosphere. Trust me, the fight is not Easy since it is mixed with the fear of not competing at all. This decision was taken after a precise structured training under Balu Paaji and Mehak Ma’am but the training I had undergone was enough in fact I was over trained for it but we were dealing with something never experienced before and it was THE HIMALAYAS. After a continuous training of 3 months on hills and inclined areas of Gurgaon roads we went on a final test where we were on roads under the humid weather from 8pm to 9am in the morning. 

Keeping all this in mind I thought if I could do that then why not this. Everything flashed like a movie in my eyes in five minutes. The clock was ticking and I have to decide quickly weather to continue or leave and try next year, I usually don’t cry but almost had tears in my eyes. without wasting any time I took 2 bananas with a bowl of curd and resumed my race. For next 2-3 km I kept taking to myself just had one thought in my mind, “Kulwinder you have no choice, You have to finish this race and you will finish this race”. I don’t know was it determination, my undying spirit or the bananas Curd but trust me my stomach cramps were getting less painful now walking the inclines became comparatively easier. Though I wasted quite some time and lost the track of my fellow teammates but no worries I will make it up to them I told myself . It feels like a Bollywood movie is running in my mind where the Hero will ultimately win after utter determination of passing those hurdles. I was struggling to reach the Khardung la top by passing the steep inclined path with a smile. I had no choice. 

As I had been moving up, the oxygen level started to decline. Now I knew the things were getting worse for me but thank God my stomach was feeling much better now. Believe me I was using all the breathing and other techniques I learned to keep my Heart rate low. I could see the KTOP from 4 km away and I stood there to stare KTOP like i am saying to it that I not quitting I am not stopping. I FINALLY COMPLETED MY FIRST HURDLE REACHING THE KTOP and got my bib marked there for a manual timing. 

This is not all, I am 60 mins away from my fellow mates. This news is enough to put down my boosted morale. “Hey? Why am I feeling this way? Have I really forgotten how I came in the race? all those pains and medicals with so much of fright?” I asked myself. Well! These kinds of questions are enough for any athlete to keep going. I went into a flashback some 2- 3 days ago when I stood in a que of medical checkup. This was a necessary one to test if every athlete is fit for these uncertain, high altitude and low oxygen space situations. I already knew I am suffering from a severe stomachache and body aches where I could see the medical team was letting some people aside and rejected there forms because they were unfit for this. I kept praying to every God I know just to let me pass this and finally it was my turn. Doctor asked me to sit while he checked my oxygen and pulse, then he got his stethoscope where he asked me to take a deep breath “you have static murmur”, he said. “What” I replied, “a static murmur in your heart”, he repeated. Then he enquired about my medical history and training sessions. Finally, after a lot of resistance he allowed me to race and requested me, not to put pressure on my heart and call for the medical team in case I feel uncomfortable. THANK GOD! I took a sigh of relief that I was not required, and I could pull this long. Because now is the time to go steep down. “This is going to be easy “, I told myself but as we all know Easy is not the word for runners. EASY in our dictionary comes with the most difficult challenge. 

It took me no time to realize that this is the worst part of my running track because there were no roads plus the entire pressure made my knees to pain like a broken bone. I calculated the time realized I have only 2 hours to reach my 2nd spot which is South Pulu. I kept walking down the hill though big pits and rocks. Sun was now on the head and it started getting hot. I was packed with 3 layers I decided to layer off at South Pulu. Met few strong runners on way down, hence boosting my morale. With their sheer motivation I reached South Pullu 15 minutes before the decided time and shred off my layers. I am on the road again, now this is going to be tough since I have 1.45hrs to reach Mendak Morh, the last cutoff before the finish line towards Leh city. With tired legs it is getting tougher and I was thinking why I chose this bloody race. Temperature variation from 15 to 0 degree to 20 Degree body wasn’t understanding what the hell is this Sardar doing with it. It was easy it was never meant to be that because the path is declined and I need to keep my pace low since the oxygen saturation was also very low hence making me breathless while I push off on my speed. I had company now with me Kalyani who is very strong Nagpur runners was running with me. I asked a to keep a track of time and keep intimating me after every 15 minutes. After running 12 km, on the way I kept asking the volunteers at every pit stop “How many km left for Mendak morh but they kept bluffing with “ 2 – 3kms bacha hai sir “ answer at every spot. 15 mins are left to cutoff timing and we were running at almost 5:30 pace now with those tired legs and no visuals of Mendak Morh. I was losing hope as the time was running out . I can see the road downhill for 2-3 km but there was no Mendak Morh. Now I thought that’s it ….I will not be able to pass this cut off point on time. Still I gathered myself and running with best of whatever left in me. There is no pain in stomach or legs now, only one thought in mind where the hell is this Mendak Morh. Kalyani told me we have 14 minutes left. I almost lost all hope because as a runner you can calculate the distance and pace & math wasn’t working in our favor when …..I heard somebody shouting “ Run fast, Its just 2 kms left”. We looked at each other and started running like it’s the starting of the race. It was the fastest 2 km of the entire race so far. I forgot we still had almost 20 km to finish line AND YES WE DID IT. I felt like I won the race but there was no time to celebrate . it was narrow escape by mere 2 min before cut off time . 

The Game is not ever yet! God has taken every possible test and now is the time to rejoice since I have 2 hrs to complete the race and the cold wind has started to flow. This took all my fatigue away. I decided to run and complete the race in my own way, the way I always wanted to, the way I always dreamt of. Next 10-12 km were very good, suddenly the mathematics started to work for me. I could see the Leh town from the mountains and the visuals or city were getting clear as I was moving forward. leaving the big Himalayas, I was entering into the city. while I was running everyone was applauding me from every corner of the street and I was just moving forward. This run was almost impossible from the very beginning which is becoming and effortless task while I am coming near to the finish line. I could see the finish line, people clapping and shouting for runners on both the sides. It was last 500 mtrs and only 20 min to Marathon cutoff timing but I wasn’t worried about time now, I was running like Usain bolt as for others it was just marathon getting completed but for me it was a war I was winning against my limitations my weaknesses . AND THIS TIME WHEN I CROSSED THE FINISH LINE with my arms open in the air and looking in the sky thanking my WAHEGURU for providing me strength and belief that I can finish this, tears were rolling down my eyes. I could see my entire group shouting, jumping in joy running towards me and I could see happiness in the eyes of people who have immense care for me. More than this I feel satisfied of myself that I fought with every hurdle that came in front of me during the day. This is the drug I fought for; this is the time I dreamt for. THIS IS MY TIME. 

(I cannot finish this story without a small write up shared by one of our esteemed and my favorite runner from DXR (Dwarka Xpress Runners) Dr. Satish Sangwan who very beautifully explained the dissappointment & perplex situation my fellow runners facing on the other side ……

“Kulwinder Paaji is that gun which fires only when circumstances are totally adverse. Having a bad stomach the night previous to KC, getting a leg sprain before he could climb the mighty Khardungla Top, Balwinder Paaji confirming this 5 kms to finish line, advising us to begin descend with him as he had seen Kulwinder Paaji’s condition and keeping fingers crossed, Mehak and me with failing hearts. Everyone asking about Kulwinder Paaji’s position in group with no answers from anyone for obvious reasons, our celebrations of two tigers achievement seemed dampening, feeling of helplessness sinking into every heart of group here, flash board clocks 4:45pm, 15 minutes to go into finishing the run, most of us leave for a tea shop on first floor of market 20 meters from finish line, waiting for tea to be served after celebrating success of Balwinder Sir and Niteshwar and leaving them to recover, and then Sandeep Ji shouts looking out of the window what every ear was desperate to listen- Kullu Paaji on finish line. Amazed, everyone jumps of their seats only to witness the tiger crossing the finish line in style, bowing down to Almighty gracefully, declaring his unwillingness to bow down to adversities, emerging as a winner beating all odds, the camp erupted with joy witnessing the inevitable happen. Words will fall short to express our state of mind during this period. Kulwinder, an inspiration for all of us, our gratitude to you and your fighting spirit” At this moment I felt I Achieved Something. 

YES! EACH HURDLE WAS WORTH IT.